Bosnia, bridge by bridge.
Coffee poured in Baščaršija, the divers on Stari Most, Kravice in full flood and the green road that runs between them. Which tours are worth the drive, what each one costs, and who actually runs it.
The seven that fill a first week.
Mostar and the Kravice pools in one long day. A coffee in Baščaršija that takes an hour on purpose. The Buna coming out of the cliff at Blagaj, and the bunker under a hill at Konjic. These are the bookings travellers come back for.
Dubrovnik: Kravica Waterfalls, Mostar and Pocitelj Day Trip
12-hour Dubrovnik day trip to Kravica waterfalls, Mostar’s Old Bridge, and Počitelj, with swim time, old-town wandering, and an English guide.
From $35 per person
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One road does the whole of Herzegovina.
Leave early and the south lines up in a single day: Konjic’s stone bridge over green water, the Sufi house at Blagaj where the Buna comes straight out of a cliff, Počitelj climbing its hillside in Ottoman stone, then Kravice at the end, when the pools are finally warm enough to swim.
Where does your Mostar day start?
Almost everyone sees Mostar and the Herzegovina stone towns on a single long day, and the base you leave from changes all of it: how early the alarm goes, how much of the country you watch through a window, and what the seat costs. Three honest versions, priced and reviewed.
From Sarajevo
Across the country and back
8 hours (approx.) · from $57 · 742 reviews
The full north-to-south run: out through the Neretva canyon, a stop at Konjic, then Mostar, Blagaj, Počitelj and Kravice before the road turns for home. Twelve hours or so, and you get the middle of Bosnia instead of skipping over it.
See the Sarajevo departures →
From the Dalmatian coast
The border-crossing day
from $34 · 4,709 reviews
The most-booked version by a distance: up from Dubrovnik, two passport checks, Kravice by late morning and Mostar for the afternoon. Carry the passport, expect a queue at the crossing in August, and take a small group if a full coach is not your idea of a holiday.
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Already in Mostar
Stay put and go deeper
1 hour 15 minutes (approx.) · from $45 · 93 reviews
Skip the driving altogether. Sleeping in Mostar buys you the Old Bridge at dawn before the coaches, an unhurried walk through the bazaar and the old Ottoman houses, and a half day at Blagaj that still gets you back for a swim.
See the Mostar walks →
Sarajevo slows right down at dusk.
Kazandžiluk rings with coppersmiths’ hammers until the shutters come down, and then the whole old quarter drops into a smaller register: ćevapi eaten standing up, coffee poured from a džezva into a cup the size of a thimble, and a long slow walk down Ferhadija with everyone else in the city.
Coffee here is an appointment.
Bosnian coffee is not espresso and is not meant to be quick: copper džezva, a sugar cube held in the teeth, half an hour minimum. Add burek from a proper pekara and ćevapi with raw onion in Baščaršija and most of a day’s eating is already settled.
Mostly mountain, mostly river.
The Neretva runs emerald the whole way to the sea, the Tara cuts the deepest canyon in Europe, and Bjelašnica still has shepherds’ villages an hour from the capital. A raft, a kayak and decent boots go further here than any museum ticket.
The stone towns kept their shape.
At Blagaj a white dervish house sits under a two-hundred-metre cliff, with the Buna arriving out of the rock beside it, cold enough to hurt. Počitelj is a fortified village stacked up a hillside, pomegranates in the gardens and the call to prayer bouncing off the walls. Both sit half an hour from Mostar, and neither needs a whole day.
Pick your corner of the country.
Sarajevo for the coffee and the hills that close in around it. Mostar for the bridge and the divers who work it. Kravice when the weather turns hot. Jajce for a waterfall in the middle of a town. Konjic for the bunker under the hill.
What do you want the day to be?
Choose the shape of the day rather than the place: two hours through a bazaar, a full day on the water, a highland village lunch, or a driver who takes the whole route off your hands.
Most of Bosnia is a day trip.
Distances are short here and the roads are slow, which works out about even. From Sarajevo you can reach a waterfall, a highland village or another country and still be back before dark; from the Croatian coast, Bosnia is a morning’s drive and a passport stamp.
A first trip, in three moves.
Nobody sees Bosnia properly in three days, but these three days can be done properly: the capital, the south, and the mountains that sit between them.
Day 1
Sarajevo on foot
Baščaršija first thing, while the coppersmiths are still setting out their trays. The covered market, the Latin Bridge, then the cable car up Trebević for the whole valley at once.
Plan day one →
Day 2
South to the Neretva
The long one: Konjic’s bridge, the spring at Blagaj, Počitelj’s stone stairs, and Mostar late in the afternoon when the divers are working. Kravice on the way back if the heat holds.
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Day 3
Up into the highlands
Bjelašnica still carries the 1984 Olympic runs, and an hour past them Lukomir sits at 1,470 metres with stone roofs and no road through. Walk the ridge, eat whatever the village is cooking.
Plan day three →
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